Birth of a Shoe

Phase One: Design & Preparation

  • Meet with the client to discuss shoe style, color, and leather
  • Price each pair, determined by style and materials chosen
  • Design and submit first draft drawing & price to client for approval and deposit
  • Design the shoe on a working last, the form of the shoe
  • Create a flat pattern for shoe
  • Cut upper out of approved leather

Phase Two: Crafting the Upper

  • Sew the uppers, all the exterior leather above the sole
  • Prepare and cut the insole, the leather piece your foot rests on
  • Cut and sew shoe liner, the interior leather of the shoe
  • Sew liner to upper
  • Prepare shoe for lasting, the process of shaping the upper to the last by adding stabilizers to the upper
  • Last the uppers
  • Add toe puffer and allow shoe to rest for 24 hours

Phase Three: Inseam & Sole

  • Prepare shoe for inseaming, the process of sewing the welt, a piece of leather stitched to the and insole.
  • Inseam the shoe (takes about 6 hours per shoe) allow to rest for 8 hours
  • Add shank and shank cover—rests on the heel and into the arch allowing stability so shoe does not collapse
  • Peg shank for lasting support.
  • Add sole to the shoe
  • Prepare sole by soaking for 8 hours and allow to rest over night
  • Trim the sole and stitch the outer sole to the welt
  • Shape the outer sole with 5 grades of sandpaper the last of which is only by hand.

Phase Four: Finish & Polish

  • Finish the outsole
  • Cut and shape heel
  • Clean and polish shoe with 4 coats of polish by hand
  • Packaged and deliver shoes to the client.

The entire process of crafting each pair of shoes takes upwards of 50 hours. More than 200 individual steps comprise each pair of shoes.